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Korea's royal legacy brightens autumn colors
 Date: October 30, 2007

Ginko tree of Changdeokgung Palace.The deep blue sky and fiery red leaves prove time and again that fall is the best time to visit Korea. To share the best of autumn's delights, the Cultural Heritage Administration has opened the serene paths winding through the well-tended gardens of royal tombs. 

"It's pretty recent that we opened up the forest paths and gardens," a Cultural Heritage Administration official said, admitting that in the past, the government was overly cautious -- initially denying access then allowing people to enter only after leaves had been removed to reduce fire risk.

This autumn however, officials are allowing visitors to fully experience the beauty of the grounds. "We didn't rake up the fallen leaves, so people can walk on them and get a better sense of the season."

Following is a list of royal sites perfect for a day's stroll:

Changdeokgung Palace and Huwon

Changdeokgung Palace and its rear garden "Huwon," also called "Biwon" (the Secret Garden), is probably the best place in the country to view nature fit for a king. The palace was built in 1405 as a villa for the royal family of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and its garden is famous for relying on natural beauty and adding few man-made touches.

Color from the foliage of scholar trees, representing a righteous spirit; mulberry trees that helped supply silk for the queen; oak trees, used to provide delicious acorns; and "darae" trees (Actinidia arguta Planchon), the last remaining in Korea, combine with the villa's pond and pavilion to create a perfect picture.

Donggureung

Donggureung in Gyeonggi-do (Province) is Korea's largest cluster of royal tombs -- 17 Joseon kings and queens are buried here. Pampas grass, brought in from the Hamheung region; old pine trees; zelkova trees; oriental oaks; autumn wild flower; and yellowing grass all add up to create a majestic golden fall.

Gwangneung

Gwangneung promenade.Gwangneung, the royal tomb of King Sejo, the 7th monarch of Joseon Dynasty, is one of the most well protected royal tombs.

Because royal decree forbade the removal of even a tuft of grass, it has become a sanctuary for animals and plants in the area. The Korean (Tristram's) woodpecker is among the endangered species that reside here.

The public road to the tomb winds through centuries-old fir, pine and broadleaf trees.

Yeongneung

Yeongneung, a tomb near Yeoju, Gyeonggi-do, holds the remains of Great King Sejong, the creator of the Korean alphabet, and other kings. A forest trail links the tombs, and azalea, maple, and white oak trees and mother chrysanthemum fill the part between King Sejong and King Hyojong's tombs.

Every Sunday in November, Yeongneung will host Korean traditional performances, starting with taekkyeon (a martial art), and continuing with tightrope walking, court dances and Buddhist dances. Foreigners are especially welcomed. Grounds officials are making a special invitation to the growing number of foreign wives married to Korean men.

Seooreung

Changneung, one of the five royal tombs in Seooreung.Seooreung comprises the five royal tombs of Gyeongneung, Changneung, Myeongneung, Ingneung and Hongneung. Red and gold leaves cover Seooreung's 2-km and 4-km scenic paths this time of year.

Night view of Deoksugang and Sulleung

Back in Seoul, the palace Deoksugung across from City Hall and the royal tomb Sulleung in Gangnam-gu's Samreung Park boast the best night views of maple trees. Consequently, both are open until 9 p.m. to take advantage of their fall celebrity.

Return of Geoncheonggung

Geongcheongung at Gyeongbokgung Palace.Gyeongbokgung's recently restored Geoncheonggung -- palace grounds closed to the public for nearly a century -- provide the last, but not least, of Korea's royal fall promenades. Built in 1873, this was where Edison Electric Light Company installed Korea's first electricity in 1887. Dubbed a "palace within a palace," it contained a storage area for royal articles and a private retreat for Emperor Gojong and Empress Myeongseong (the posthumous name of Queen Min).

This section of Seoul's main palace, however, is best remembered for tragedy more than its once-bright electric lights and beautiful autumn colors. In 1895, Japanese assassins entered the palace grounds and hunted down Queen Min, eventually hacking her to death and burning the body.

A broken Emperor Gojong never returned to Geongcheonggung. Imperial Japan, after annexing Korea in 1910, destroyed the site of the murder and built its domed Government General Building in front of the palace's main hall. The Korean government tore down the old colonial capitol building in 1998 and restoration of Geongcheonggung began in 2004.

For more information on Geonchunggung: www.royalpalace.go.kr.

 
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