By Yoon Hee Young
Namhae-gun County, Gyeongsangnam-do Province
Videos = Lee Jun Young

■ Hidden charm 1┃Columnar joints, Namhae's unexplored spectacle


When thinking of a prime spot to view columnar joints in Korea, many might say Jeju Island. Yet Namhae-gun County in Gyeongsangnam-do Province also has such geological structures that look as majestic as those in Jeju. Located 20 minutes by boat from Byeongnyeonhang Port in the village of Yanga-ri in the county's Sangju-myeon Township, the columnar joints are shaped like pentagonal or hexagonal columns as they cooled after a volcanic eruption. Though many Namhae natives are unfamiliar with the site, it is renowned as a hidden spectacle among Yanga-ri residents.

Capt. Choe Gil-dong, who drove the boat toward the scenic view point for the columnar joints, said, "Residents in the past used to call it 'keyboard rocks' since they didn't know they were columnar joints and because the rocks resemble a piano keyboard."

According to ancient legend, the site was where "a dragon ascended to heaven" as the rocks look like dragon scales. Also seen are a deeply dug "turtle cave" shaped like a turtle as well as a "dragon king rock." Oral folktales say the dragon king guarding the sea took a chunk of rock shaped like a turtle and brought it to life to ride it. Looking at the landscape again after hearing this story, a scene in which the dragon king rules over the sea while riding a turtle comes to mind.

■ Hidden charm 2┃Daraengi Village: built with sweat and tears of Namhae peasants

Included in the CNN list of "50 beautiful places to visit in Korea," Daraengi Village in Nam-myeon Township is Namhae's leading tourist attraction. Yet few know of the hardship and sorrow suffered by the villagers.

The village is a coastal hamlet with no boats because of the steep cliff by the ocean. Due to the geographically unfavorable condition for fishing, villagers had to cultivate the barren land for agriculture. The terraced rice paddies were built by "mothers" in Namhae who carried stones and rocks from Seolheulsan Mountain to form a high stonework. Namhae culture and tourism commentator Son Hea-ryeon said, "Daraengi Village retains the toughness of the village mothers," adding, "They carved the hillside and cultivated infertile land with their bare hands to make the land arable."

The small rice paddy called satgatbaemi in the corner has an interesting back story. Once upon a time, a farmer cultivated 10 patches but discovered one missing during his daily count. Confused, he counted them again and again but couldn't find it. As he gave up and lifted his satgat (traditional hat made of woven reeds or bamboo) to go home, he found the missing patch underneath his hat. The patch was so small that it was hidden underneath his hat. The story tells just how earnest and diligent Namhae farmers were, as shown in using the smallest space as farmland.


■ Hidden charm 3┃Windbreak Forest of Mulgeon-ri with 300 years of community history


The next destination was more about relaxation and composure in nature. Windbreak Forest in the village of Mulgeon-ri on the coast of Samdong-myeon Township is an artificial forest created in the 17th century to protect the nearby farmland and village from waves and wind. With an estimated 10,000 trees spanning nearly 100 species and planted along the curved coast, the forest is popular among tourists seeking a secluded walking trail.

The forest has a bigger role than simply protecting the village from strong sea winds and waves. Every year on Oct. 15 under the lunar calendar, village residents hold the annual ritual Dongje in front of the forest's oldest retusa fringe tree standing at the entrance of the woods. The event wishes for the well-being and peace of the village and bountiful catches for the fishing industry.

Long-time village resident Kim Jae-myung, 79, said, "Three meticulously selected officials hold the ritual with all their hearts to wish for the well-being of the village," adding, "After the ritual, the villagers all gather round to hold a feast with the food served for the ceremony. It's not just a ritual but more of a festival long passed down to the villagers."


A story passed down orally says that back in the day, the coastal village suffered serious damage from storms after part of the forest was cut down by people. The village has since made it a rule to preserve the forest by fining those who try to cut down trees there. The forest preserves a long history of the village community that remains alive and breathing.


■ Hidden charm 4 ┃ 'Soeseom over Jeju': Why did a working couple move to Namhae?

Cho Hea-soon and Jeong Wang-si, co-owners of a cafe and pension in front of Sodo Island aka Soeseom, a five-minute drive from the town of Namhae-eup, are a middle-aged couple who had originally planned to move to Jeju Island and bade farewell to 30 years of city life. One day, Cho had dinner at a hoe (raw fish) restaurant near Soeseom during a visit to Namhae and was captivated by the island's landscape, as Soeseom was connected to the main island years ago. "After falling in love with the island, I called my husband, who had moved to Jeju Island in advance, to come to Namhae," Cho said. "I bought the restaurant building right away to renovate it as a cafe on the first floor and as a pension on the second and third floors."

Cho said, "The island's views differ in the morning and at sunset and dawn. My favorite time is before sunrise, as it shows the island as calm as a lake."

hyyoon@korea.kr