CNN in its May 23 article "Makgeolli: How Korean rice wine is stepping out of soju's shadow" explained the history and prospects of the traditional drink. (Screen capture from CNN)

By Lee Jihae

CNN has spotlighted the traditional alcoholic rice beverage makgeolli.

The U.S.-based news network on May 23 featured the drink in the article headlined "Makgeolli: How Korean rice wine is stepping out of soju's shadow."

Explaining the history of makgeolli, the story said the beverage, which "was chosen for its price, not flavor," is getting out of its dark age in growing more popular.

"One reason for the popularity is its simplicity," it said. "It (makgeolli) is a mixture of steamed rice, yeast and water, left to ferment for a few weeks in a clay pot. Many families across Korea brewed their own drinks with their unique recipe (before Japanese occupation of Korea from 1910-45)."

The Japanese government during its annexation of the Korean Peninsula "phased out homebrewers in favor of standardized, industrial liquor makers. All alcohol-making was taxed and licenses were required, even for self-consumption," CNN said, adding that homebrewing was outlawed in 1934.

"As the food shortage worsened in the 1960s, using rice — makgeolli's key ingredient — to produce alcoholic drinks was banned," the story added. "Manufacturers used wheat and barley as substitutes and makgeolli's popularity sunk. It was supplanted by modern soju, a clear liquor made by diluting ethanol."

"As the economy improved and rice supply outstripped consumption, the rice alcohol ban was lifted in 1989 and homebrewing was made legal again in 1995. But much tradition was lost."

CNN said the rebirth of makgeolli production is thanks to young researchers and the government "embracing traditional alcohol as a proud heritage."

The government in 2017 allowed online sales and direct delivery of traditional alcoholic beverages to consumers.

In 2020, when the liquor market in Korea shrank 1.6% due to the COVID-19 pandemic, that of makgeolli soared 52.1%, the report said, citing data from Korea Agro-fisheries and Food Trade Corp.

Based on National Tax Service data, the number of licensed makgeolli brewers surged 43% after 2009, CNN added.

In an interview with CNN, Kim Min-kyu, CEO of the makgeolli brand Boksoondoga, said Korea's cultural power has expanded beyond Asia to the rest of the world over the past few years, and that makgeolli can ride this wave.

CNN also said eating jeon, or pancakes with meat or vegetables made with seasoned flour batter, while drinking makgeolli is common. 

"The combo is especially popular on rainy days. The sale of makgeolli and ingredients for jeon climbs sharply on rainy days across major convenience store chains, according to a report by the Ministry of Economy and Finance," it added.

jihlee08@korea.kr