This is Mungyeongsaejae Provincial Park in Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province (Aisylu Akhmetzianova)

By Aisylu Akhmetzianova

King Taejo Yi Seong-gye, the founder and first king of the Joseon Dynasty who ruled the country from 1392-98, developed a road network connecting the country centered on Hanyang, the name of the capital Seoul at the time. One such path was the 377 km-long Yeongnamdaero, the shortest route between Dongnae (now Busan) and Hanyang.

The highest and steepest hill on Yeongnamdaero is Mungyeongsaejae Pass. The latter is a 642 m-high hill in the valley between Joryeongsan Mountain (1,026 m above sea level), which is on the border between Goesan-gun County, Chungcheongbuk-do Province, and Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province, and Juheulsan Mountain in Mungyeong (1,039 m).

The pass is well-known as the way through which scholars from Yeongnam, a region traditionally comprising the two Gyeongsang-do provinces and the metropolitan cities of Busan, Daegu and Ulsan, went through toward Hanyang to take the civil service exam during the Joseon Dynasty.

The reason scholars passed through the pass was not only to reach Hanyang in the fastest period of 14 days, but also because the Hanja (Chinese character) for mun means "to hear" and that for gyeong "an auspicious occasion." Mungyeong thus referred to as "the road of jangwongeupjae," or passing the civil service exam.

Juheulgwan Gate is the No. 1 gate at Mungyeongsaejae Pass in Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. (Aisylu Akhmetzianova)

A Korea.net staff writer on Nov. 14 visited Mungyeongsaejae Provincial Park in Myungyeong. Juheulgwan Gate, the first of the hill's three representative entryways, was visible upon arrival at the entrance.

While it was the No. 1 gate, Juheulgwan was built after No. 2 Jogokgwan, which was built in 1594 for protection during the 1592-98 Imjin War, or a series of Japanese invasions of the Korean Peninsula. Jogokgwan was perceived as a strategic military point, thus the first and third (Joryeonggwan) gates were built sequentially in 1708.

Located next to Juheulgwan is the shrine Seonghwangdang, which was built in 1700 for worshiping the shamanistic deity Seonghwang, the supposed guardian of Mungyeongsaejae. The facility is said to have been renovated several times after its establishment.

Guide Jung Hee-yeol, who accompanied the Korea.net writer on her visit, said, "This is where festivals for the Juheulsan Mountain and Seonghwang gods took place in October this year."

This is the open film set at Mungyeongsaejae Pass of Mungyeongsaejae Provincial Park in Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. (Mungyeong City Hall)

As the writer walked from the gates Juheulgwan to Jogokgwan, she saw the open film set of Mungyeongsaejae, which is famous as the filming site for hit historical K-dramas such as "Taejo Wang Geon" (2000), "Age of Warriors" (2003), "The Moon Embracing the Sun" (2012) and "Kingdom" (2019).

Along the path was also jumak, which served as a bar, restaurant and inn. Mungyeongsaejae, a major area of Yeongnamdaero, is renowned as a place with a prosperous jumak village and high floating population. 

Jeong said, "This is where people using Saejae roads during the Joseon Dynasty relaxed and relieved fatigue from their trips."

The writer passed by Jogokgwan and walked along the road of jangwongeupjae until reaching chaekbawi (book rocks), a 2 m-high pile of rocks that caught her eye.

The legend surrounding the stone pagoda is that a woman moved and piled the rocks around her house for three years and prayed. Her son eventually recovered his health and passed the civil service exam with the highest grade.

"Because of this legend, scholars in the Joseon era who took the civil service exam piled up rocks and prayed to pass the test," Jeong added. "Even to this day, many people pray here for luck to pass exams or get their wishes fulfilled."

These are chaekbawi (book rocks) on Mungyeongsaejae Pass in Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province.

Walking out of Joryeongwan at the highest point on Mungyeongsaejae and heading down the pass previously traveled through brings one to the foot of the mountain range Baekdu Daegan.

"(Joryeongwan) was built to block invasion by enemies from the north," Jeong said. "Mungyeongsaejae Pass was place that played a crucial role in transportation from the early Goryeo Dynasty."

The 6.5-km walk from Juheulgwan (No. 1 gate) to Joryeongwan (No. 3) takes about two hours one way.

The path to Jogokwan (No. 2) is a smooth and slow red clay road that has people even walking with their shoes off on it. Yet the slope from Jogokgwan to Joryeongwan is steep.

"You can enjoy various strolls and treks (at Mungyeongsaejae Pass)," Jeong said. "This place offers diverse things to see and enjoy throughout all four seasons."

Joryeongwan is the No. 3 gate of Mungyeongsaejae Pass in Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province. (Mungyeong City Hall)