Food/Travel

Apr 10, 2025

This is the sunset as seen from Dongmak Beach on Ganghwado Island off the coast of Ganghwa-gun County in Incheon.

This is the sunset as seen from Dongmak Beach on Ganghwado Island off the coast of Ganghwa-gun County in Incheon.


By Charles Audouin
Photos = Charles Audouin

As the days grow longer with the arrival of spring, a tranquil atmosphere awaits just an hour drive from Seoul.

Gimpo, Gyeonggi-do Province, and Ganghwado Island in Incheon's Ganghwa-gun County are where the Hangang River flows to the end of the West (Yellow) Sea and joins the Imjin River to say their final farewell.


This is a view of Gaepung-gun County of North Korea as seen from Aegibong Observatory in Gimpo, Gyeonggi-do Province. Visitors can use an augmented reality-based telescope on cloudy days.

This is a view of Gaepung-gun County of North Korea as seen from Aegibong Observatory in Gimpo, Gyeonggi-do Province. Visitors can use an augmented reality-based telescope on cloudy days.


Aegibong Peace Ecological Park: see North Korea from shortest distance


The first journey began at Aegibong Peace Ecological Park in Gimpo, a city famous for the airport named after it in Seoul but also for being next to Gaeseong, a border city in North Korea.

An exhibition hall at the end of the road from the parking lot offers a glimpse of Gimpo's ecology and history. A virtual reality train highlights the historical district of Gaeseong, the ancient capital of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), including Manwoldae, the kingdom's main palace.

Gaepung-gun County of the North is spread out just 1.4 km from the observatory, where visitors can see people farming and living in the mountains and fields.

This scene was truly peaceful perhaps because not one boat could enter or leave the area.

The Aegibong park is a civilian-controlled zone where entry is allowed after confirmation of a visitor's ID. Online reservations are recommended for admission, which costs KRW 3,000.


Visitors take photos in front of a protected tree at Jeondeungsa Temple in Ganghwa-gun County, Incheon.

Visitors take photos in front of a protected tree at Jeondeungsa Temple in Ganghwa-gun County, Incheon.


Jeondeungsa Temple: restore mind and body in nature


Crossing the Ganghwa Strait connecting Gimpo and Ganghwado led to the next destination of this trip: Jeondeungsa Temple.

Erected when Buddhism was introduced to the Korean Peninsula during the Three Kingdoms Period (57 B.C.-668 A.D.), Jeondeungsa is the nation's oldest surviving Buddhist temple.

Going up the parking lot leads to the south gate of Samnangseong Fortress, whose name means "three men." The trio refers to who legend says built the fortress, namely the sons of Dangun, the mythical founder of the Korean nation. This is also where Joseon Dynasty forces in 1866 defeated a French army invading Ganghwado.

Within the Jeondeungsa compound are trees as old as the centuries-old temple and form a great venue for taking a leisurely stroll.

The promenade along the fortress walls overlooks the Ganghwa Strait.


Hwamunseok (traditional sedge mats) are displayed at a store on Ganghwado Island.

Hwamunseok (traditional sedge mats) are displayed at a store on Ganghwado Island.


Hwamunseok (sedge mats): distinct traditional handicrafts

Another highlight of Ganghwado is hwamunseok (traditional sedge mats).

Made by rush weaving designs using sedges, the mats are cool in summer and warm in winter.

Their main pattern is floral but others include dragons, mandarin ducks, butterflies and the Hanja 亞. Each design has its own symbol.

Visitors can experience the elaborate process of making the mats at the facility Ganghwadoryeong Hwamunseok.

"We use sedges that grow well in the strong sea breeze of Ganghwado Island. Because it takes over 600,000 trimmings, high prices are inevitable." said Park Yoon-hwan, a researcher specializing in the preservation of hwamunseok.

Ganghwa Pungmul Market in the nearby town of Ganghwa-eup has a plethora of mat designs.


A visitor gives a seagull a shrimp cracker at Dongmak Beach on Incheon's Ganghwado Island.

A visitor gives a seagull a shrimp cracker at Dongmak Beach on Incheon's Ganghwado Island.


Dongmak Beach: watch beautiful sunset

The last stop on this trip was Dongmak Beach, where the sea touches the sky.

Breathing in the iodine-rich air from the island's southern waters was something to remember.

The tidal flats sprawled to the horizon, where islands were faintly visible in the distance. It looked as if one could walk across to the islands when the water receded.

People walking on the white sandy beach raised their hands above their heads holding shrimp crackers. A flock of seagulls overhead squawked, with one bird nimbly snatching the snack from a visitor's fingertips, attracting dozens of other seagulls who wanted some.

The sun started setting in late afternoon and the red sky bathed the sea, ending the day quietly.


Grilled clams like these at a restaurant on Dongmak Beach are a can't-miss on Incheon's Ganghwado Island.

Grilled clams like these at a restaurant on Dongmak Beach are a can't-miss on Incheon's Ganghwado Island.


This story was written through the writer's participation in "Senses of K-Culture," a program for expats in Korea to experience the provinces. More information and application to take part are on the event's official site (sensesofkculture.kr).