By Korea.net Honorary Reporter Ma. Lilia Pedellulme from the Philippines
Photos = Ma. Lilia Pedellulme

Nestled in a valley, surrounded by a dense forest in the southernmost section of Taebaek Mountain Range, Unmunsa (운문사) is a 1,458-year old Buddhist temple located in Cheongdo County in the North Gyeongsang Province. It was first built in A.D. 560, the 21st year of the reign of King Jinheung of the Silla Kingdom and was originally named Daejakkapsa (대작갑사). It underwent a couple of renovations before the collapse of the Silla Kingdom. In A.D. 937, the 20th year of King Taejo's Goryeo Dynasty, he donated some agricultural land to the temple and awarded it a plaque bearing the name Unmunseonsa (운문선사). From that time onwards the temple was called Unmunsa.

Unmunsa features some valuable relics including a stone lantern (Treasure No. 193), a stone pillar of the Four Protectors of Buddhism (Treasure No. 318), a three-story stone pagoda (Treasure No. 678), a bronze urn (Treasure No. 208), a seated stone Buddha (Treasure No. 317) and an over 500-year old weeping pine tree (Natural Monument No. 180).

In addition, an academy for nuns was established in 1958. Now, it is Korea's largest nunnery.

Aside from its long history and the valuable relics it possesses, there is another reason why Unmunsa is popular and it is the rich autumn colors of the mountains surrounding the temple.

Those who know me know how much I love fall. That is the very reason why I came across this precious place. I learned about Unmunsa last year while I was translating a travel essay written by a Korean travel blogger. After learning about it, I visited the temple and fell in love with its colorful autumn scenery.

Since there are buses from Gyeongsan that go directly to Unmunsa, my husband and I decided to go there again this fall. But instead of going directly to the temple, we decided to hike up to Bukdaeam Hermitage (북대암) first.

Tucked right under Unmun Mountain Fortress (also known as Jiryong Mountain Fortress), Bukdaeam is believed to have been built in 557, the 18th year of the reign of King Jinheung of the Silla Kingdom.

Bukdaeam offers a bird's eye view of Unmunsa Temple, the farm land next to the stream and the majestic mountains behind it. It is one of the views you don't want to miss when visiting Unmunsa. It is the main reason why we decided to go there despite the steep climb up. Bukdaeam itself, standing proudly against the deep blue skies, is also a beauty to behold.

After enjoying the grandeur offered by Bukdaeam, we headed down towards Unmunsa Temple. Just like last fall, there were a lot of people visiting the temple. We walked around the familiar buildings and snapped photos as much as we wanted.



Then we found ourselves in front of another gate. The gate leading to the compound where nuns live and study. That gate was closed when we visited last year. So we were surprised to see it open. Then we saw a notice on the side of the gate letting the public know that the gate would be opened every day until 4 p.m. from October 28 to November 4, 2018, to allow visitors a chance to see the gingko tree of Unmunsa. The “Great Old Gingko Tree of Unmunsa” is about 460 years old and is one of the temple's main attractions in autumn.

Finding the gate open made me really happy. I excitedly walked towards the famed tree. For a few seconds I stood still in front of it and just adored its golden beauty. Its crown was so bright and was made even brighter by the beams of the setting sun. I walked around it taking photos of it from every possible angle. I felt lucky to have seen it and gotten close to it.

While inside the compound, I also seized the opportunity to look around the buildings inside that secluded area of Unmunsa. The buildings looked almost the same as the ones located in the area which is open to the public except for one building that looked more like a traditional Korean noble house.

Standing in between the buildings and looking at the towering mountains surrounding the temple grounds, I could not help but admire the beautiful scenery that surrounded me. Once again, I was reminded why I love Unmunsa Temple.

If you are looking for a place to enjoy the beautiful autumn foliage, make Unmunsa your next destination. I am sure you will love it.

How to get there

From Dongdaegu Complex Transfer Center or Gyeongsan Intercity Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus bound for Unmunsa. After arriving at Unmunsa Terminal, walk towards the main gate. Pay the admission fee and just follow the trail passing through a pine tree forest. The trail leads directly to the temple.

If you want to stop by Bukdaeam, you must head towards the other side of the asphalt road, once you reach the end of the wooden fence. Watch out for cars. When you see the rock with the word “북대암” (Bukdaeam) inscribed on it, follow the road going up.

Tourist Information

Attraction: Unmunsa Temple
Address: 264 Unmunsa-gil, Unmun-myeon, Cheongdo-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Admission: Adult KRW 2,000; Youth KRW 1,000; Children KRW 500

Attraction: Bukdaeam Hermitage
Address: 1803 Simwon-ri, Unmun-myeon, Cheongdo-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do



wisdom117@korea.kr

* This article is written by a Korea.net Honorary Reporter. Our group of Honorary Reporters are from all around the world, and they share with Korea.net their love and passion for all things Korean.