By Honorary Reporter Lyuboslava Hristova from Bulgaria
Photos = Lyuboslava Hristova

Near the southernmost part of the Korean Peninsula lies the picturesque Jindo Island. Though the country's third-largest island, Jindo is not that popular with foreign or domestic tourists, giving way to the far more famous Jeju Island. Hundreds of kilometers away from Seoul, this small piece of land, steeped in longstanding tradition, offers thoroughly distinct views of Korean culture in contrast to the endless crowds of tourists, the fast-paced lifestyle and the rapid pulsating of major cities. On Jindo, the mountains resonate with the rhythm of gongs and drums, the rice fields sway with the wind carrying centuries-old songs and the magnificent bays inspire the calligraphic brushes of generations of masters.

Tourist guides mostly say Jindo's main claim to fame is the indigenous dog breed of the same name that has been bred on the island from time immemorial. Even today, almost every yard on the island is home to one of the four-legged friends, known for their legendary devotion. Many stories praise the bravery and loyalty of clever Jindo dogs that travel dozens of kilometers after being separated from their owners to return home. A Jindo breeding center on the island for the breed's preservation and a theme park with dog shows attest to the various talents of Jindos.

The other famous attraction of the island is the annual parting of the sea, which opens the "Miracle sea road" between Jindo and Modo Island, one of the smaller surrounding islands of the archipelago. This natural phenomenon has given rise to many legends and beliefs, the most famous of which is "The Story of Grandma Ppong" from the 15th century. According to this legend, the natives live in constant fear of the many tigers on the island and flee to the nearby Modo. An elderly woman named Grandma Ppong is accidentally left behind. Finding herself alone, the brave woman prays day and night to the Dragon King of the Sea, asking to be reunited with her loved ones.

Hearing her prayers, the Dragon King appears in her dream and promises that from spring, he will draw a long rainbow as a bridge between the two islands so that she can cross the sea. He keeps his vow but the bridge is too long for the exhausted woman, who collapses in the middle of the rainbow. She falls into the arms of her loved ones, who come from the other side. Yet Grandma Ppong is both happy and thankful to be reunited with her family one last time. To honor this "miracle" and her memory, the island holds annual rituals in early March and the locals pray for the well-being of their loved ones when the road appears.

Above all, Jindo is considered a true cradle of Korean folk and performing arts, preserving its traditions to the present day. Ten folk songs, dances and games indigenous to the island have been designated intangible cultural heritage by the Korean government, and some have even earned inclusion on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. One of the most famous versions of the classic Korean folk song "Arirang" also comes from Jindo. The Arirang Cultural Center on the island studies and publicizes the history of this important piece of music. Located in one of Jindo's picturesque bays, the center is housed in a building shaped like the traditional drum janggu, which resembles an hourglass.

Despite high interest and extensive research, the true origin and meaning of "Arirang" remains elusive. The name is believed to symbolize the beauty and spirit of Koreans. Historical records say this song in the late 19th century was used to calm Joseon Dynasty King Gojong, who had a terrifying dream in which he saw Gwanghwamun Gate collapse. "Arirang" is a term closely related to the Korean identity and lifestyle and has had considerable influence in everyday life. Many domestic magazines and brands since the mid-20th century have used it for their names.

Jindo also has deep roots in visual arts. Nestled at the foot of the highest mountain, the middle of a magnificent lake garden is home to the atelier of the 19th-century master calligrapher Heo Ryeon, whose pen name was Sochi. He named his atelier Unrim, which means "the forest of mists," due to the surrounding misty landscapes that inspired his work. Over four generations, his descendants preserved the place as a flourishing art center.

Finally, the island is home to the Jindo National Gugak Center, which holds performances of traditional performing arts perched on the hills of the south coast. Its picturesque terraced building contains concert halls for folk music, rehearsal rooms, a research center and accommodation facilities with breathtaking views.

Built in 2004, the Jindo National Gugak Center is a branch of the Seoul-based National Gugak Center. The former's main purpose is to explore and preserve the rich heritage of traditional Korean music and dance, and groups from all over the world gather at the Jindo center for training and improvement of their skills during the summer. From mid-August this year, the center hosted two ensembles from Uzbekistan and the Samulnori So Young Ensemble from Bulgaria. Nineteen students and five teachers from Bulgaria from the Bulgarian ensemble participated in a two-week intensive training program for samulnori, including eight hours of practice every day, two trips around the island, attendance at cultural events organized by the center and participation in the final concert.

During our stay, after eight hours of rehearsal on a typical training day, even the cicadas seemed to have learned our songs and were ready to play with us. Yet no matter how exhausted we got, a quick glimpse at the stunning view from the center's balconies dissipated any fatigue. The ensemble thus returned to Bulgaria with a richer repertoire, heightened enthusiasm and more inspiration.

chaey0726@korea.kr

*This article is written by a Korea.net Honorary Reporter. Our group of Honorary Reporters are from all around the world, and they share with Korea.net their love and passion for all things Korean.