By Honorary Reporter Minnath Azeez from Sri Lanka
Photos = Darcygom 

Beth S.J. (Seung-ju) Lee defines the fashion industry as a toxic art that is changing rapidly with the seasons. To create eco-friendly fashion that does not worsen climate change, her designs and brand Darcygom launched in 2017 have a different perspective on fashion in Korea. 

Darcygom, a fashion brand stressing traditional Korean elements and sustainability, was founded by Lee after she returned to Korea following 15 years of living abroad. Shunning mainstream trends in fast fashion, she said her approach to sustainable fashion is to match her beliefs, inspiration and love for Korean tradition. 

Majoring in business administration at the University of British Columbia in Canada, Lee began working in non-fashion jobs, yet collected traditional fabric from the countries she visited. After her job as an NGO activist in Tanzania ended and having spent most of her youth overseas, she returned to Korea to explore more of her ethnic identity. 

Seeing a German couple wearing their country's traditional clothes fascinated her. When she arrived in Korea, she realized that she had no Hanbok, and this encouraged her to start designing and pursuing programs for young fashion designers sponsored by the Seoul Metropolitan Government and Seoul Design Center.

These outfits made through a collaboration between Darcygom and Ottogi were made with old banners.

Darcygom's designs have been worn by Korean celebrities and gained international recognition. The brand's collection "Upcycle Jungle: K-Style Upcycling" was nominated at this year's Fashion Film Festival Milan for showcasing trash being turned into fashion, featuring collections made from materials such as coffee bags and banners. Lee's collections were also featured at a virtual fashion show at the P4G Seoul Summit in May with first lady Kim Jung-sook attending.

The following are excerpts from an interview with Lee.

Why do you use traditional Korean elements in your designs?
I love vintage and when I was in the U.S., I loved 1950s and 60s fashion. These outfits inspired me with their classic silhouettes in which the design is fitted on top and flared at the bottom. Hanbok has the same pattern, and I felt an instant connection between the two styles. Thus I found a modern way of doing vintage Korean style. 

Modern Hanbok outfits by Darcygom and Nodab

Norigae dress from Darcygom's "21SS" collection

Does your brand's name have a special meaning?

Darcygom is derived from an old Korean word meaning "yet again," and since I was using traditional outfits and details in my work, I thought the word fit. Another thing going into the design process was my desire for something eco-friendly and low waste.

White durugami (overcoat) made from coffee bags from "Upcycle Jungle: K-Style Upcycling" collection

What about Korean culture inspires you the most?
Well, I don't know what my ancestors thought and I live in a different era. But what they did worked for generations, and that's why they did it. The thing that inspired me the most was symbolism.

Corona Beauty, for example, uses symbolism. The embroidery on the mask is based on a long painting representing the king called "Irworobongdo," a title that literally means "Painting of the Sun, Moon and the Five Peaks." I wanted to create an art piece with this mask because amid COVID-19, people have to stay apart. I thought of having two people next to each other wearing the same mask to promote mask wearing. I wanted to send a positive message with a Korean touch to it.  

Corona Beauty inspired by "Irworobongdo" painting

I've also been inspired by the folk painting "Jakhodo" featuring a tiger, magpie and pine tree. Magpies in Korea in the past were believed to bring good luck, tigers were supposed to block bad spirits and the pine tree was considered everlasting. People used to draw these items on paper and post them on their doors during Seollal (Lunar New Year) for good luck.

Given the pandemic, I think we all want to block bad luck and spirits and ensure health. To me, what Koreans want then and now are the same.

Describe your saekdong-inspired sustainable fashion collection.
To make saekdong (multi-colors) the traditional way takes a lot of time and effort, and sadly, it's a dying art in Korea. So I've used it more in my designs. Given Darcygom's meaning, I also wanted to revive this traditional fabric in a modern way, and it was a good theme for my brand.

Saekdong dress

How do you keep up with changes in fashion trends?

Fashion changes rapidly, so you have to be ready for spring, then summer and winter, but I don't use that process. I also think that this promotes fast fashion, something I dislike. 

For me, finding the fabric I want is difficult and to take my desired time doesn't go well with the seasons. I'm OK with sometimes doing just fall or spring because I can do accessories the next season. So I avoid fast fashion or fashion trends in Korea.

But whenever I find a cause, like the dying tradition of saekdong, I try to promote it as much as possible. But if not and if I'm creating outfits for a season, I do it slowly. It's always different from season to season and always an inspiration.