Tim AlperKeen foodies familiar with Korea will tell you that seasonal fare can be found all year long, from the depths of winter to the peaks of summer. However, perhaps the most remarkable season of all for fruit-lovers is fall -- soon to be upon us -- when some of the country’s most flavor-packed produce hits supermarket shelves.
Arguably the most immediately noticeable example is the
bae (배), or Asian pear. For Westerners like me, pears mean the green, bell-shaped Conference variety found in France and the U.K. Although
bae are arguably just as sweet as their Western cousins, that is where the similarity ends.
For a start, an Asian
bae can be massive. They are also spherical, resembling giant, brown-skinned apples. Although their thick skins are edible, the skins are almost never consumed. Instead, the Asian pears are peeled, revealing appetizing snow-white flesh. Because of their size, they are usually cut into bite-sized slices. Trying to tuck into a monster fruit of this size as you might eat an apple would be a very messy affair indeed. You have been warned!
Bae also feature in the country’s most effective and tastiest natural cold remedy,
bae-sook (배숙). This dish makes effective use of the fruit’s health properties. After all,
bae are very high in potassium and copper, as well as vitamins C and K.
Bae-sook comprises of a whole
bae, cored, stuffed and steamed with jujubes, which are also seasonal, nuts, ginger and honey. It works wonders at clearing blocked noses.
You will find leafy persimmon trees all over Korea. In summer, their fruit remain a deep green that renders them almost indistinguishable from their bushy foliage. As outdoor temperatures drop, however, the fruits quickly turn a bright orange. Incredibly, a single tree can often produce several hundred persimmons.
The town of Sangju in Gyeongsangbuk-do Province is the spiritual home of the Korean persimmon. There are more persimmon trees in this city than anyone could count: in orchards, backyards and on the roadside. That makes it well worth a visit in the fall when Sangju’s fields transform into a veritable sea of orange.
There are several varieties of Korean persimmon, ranging from firm and crunchy varieties that should be eaten right away to
daebong, a naturally matured variety that slowly takes on a distinctly jam-like texture and taste. One tip to enjoy
daebong persimmons: this variety is way too messy to eat with your hands once fully ripe and you're better off using a spoon.
Kkotgam is a dried version of a persimmon that can be a tad expensive, but they're well worth trying. The drying process is not particularly complex, but it's exceptionally delicate, leaving little room for error. It requires peeled persimmons to be hung in vertical lines, with a precise regulation of temperature and humidity, for anything between a few weeks and three months. Semi-dried persimmons become available in November, but you need to wait until midwinter before you can sample the best-loved, super-sweet, fully dried delicacy.
Possibly the biggest autumnal bounty of all -- size-wise -- is
mogwa, or quince. Korean quinces are large, rugby ball-shaped fruit. Like most European varieties commonly used to make jam,
mogwa are far too tart to be eaten raw, so they are processed prior to consumption.
Mogwa fans peel and cut the fruit into strips, which they usually store in honey or sugar syrup. Cooks often use this preserve as a marinade to flavor grilled meat. The most common use for
mogwa preserves is sweet quince tea, a drink most welcome after a mountain hike on a cool autumn morning.
A slightly more divisive autumn specialty comes in the shape of the gingko berry. Gingko trees can be found lining the roads of major cities all over the country. In spring, their white-green blossoms are exceptionally photogenic, and their distinctive fan-shaped leaves are a delight to behold.
However, in the fall, their fruit falls to the ground, where unsuspecting pedestrians often tread on them by mistake. These gingko fruits have a rather unappetizing odor, which can be a turn-off for many. Encased in this fruit is the gingko berry, a nutty-tasting delicacy. Gingko berries are often added as a garnish to a large range of dishes, such as
bibimbap mixed rice, a popular rice and vegetable preparation. I much prefer them eaten pan-fried, with no accompaniment. This lets you appreciate the rich nuttiness of the berry, and makes for a perfect autumnal after-dinner treat.
Although you can find fresh fruit no matter when you visit Korea, the treasures of the autumnal months win my vote every time.
Tim Alper is a writer and columnist, originally from the U.K., who has lived in Korea for more than ten years.